Tools

• I keep an electric sharpener (battery-powered) at my desk for speed. Look for a long point model. It’s not great for travel.
• For portable use, I like the Blackwing sharpener with a two-step system and replaceable blades. Avoid the tiny generic sharpeners. They’re inconsistent and chew up wood.
• Use sandpaper for shaping: 120–250 grit. 150 is a solid middle. Don’t go coarser than 120 or you’ll scratch graphite. I like to make my own sanding blocks by wrapping sandpaper around a piece of wood and securing it with duct tape. It's economical and works great. They also sell ping pong paddles with a sandpaper surface. Always twist the pencil while sanding and wipe dust before drawing.
• Use a sharp razor blade for wood removal or stripping coatings. Take thin slices, keep a shallow angle. If you’re not an adult, get adult supervision. To discard, wrap dull blades in tape first.

Wooded Graphite

• For tip work, I use an electric long-point sharpener.
• For portability, the Blackwing’s two holes: first removes wood, second shapes the graphite. Gives a clean, strong point.
• For smoother side shading, I sharpen to a point, then sand to a rounded bullet tip (lift slightly off the wood and roll as you sand). Wipe dust.

Woodless Graphite

• Strip the outer coating with a razor blade (slide, don’t dig). Sand: remove the corner, make a tapered spear, then lightly round to a bullet. Great for soft gradations. Expect more paper texture when shading with the side.
  

5.6 mm Clutch

• Insert the lead and shape entirely on sandpaper (no coating, so no blade needed). Same spear-then-bullet approach.

2.0 mm Mechanical

• Break off the little metal butts on some leads if they prevent loading from the front.
• In the Staedtler rotary sharpener, start with the right hole. Press the clutch, insert until the collar stops, release to set the length, then rotate with light pressure.
• Switch to the left hole for the longer, final point. Extend a bit if needed. Rotate until the sound changes.
• Clean graphite dust with the built-in white pad if you don’t have a paper towel.

Charcoal Pencils

• Expose 1/2 inch (or more) of charcoal with a razor blade. Guide with your dominant hand; push with your thumb. Take long, skinny slices to remove only wood.
• Don’t dig into the charcoal. Gently scrape off any glue. If you feel a tiny rock snag, chip it out slowly.
• Sand to a long, even point: start coarser to knock off the corner, then use a grit that won’t scratch. Twist as you sand. Wipe powder before touching paper.

Eraser Pencils

• Sharpen like a pencil. Then trim the extra-long soft tip with a blade so the point has structure. You can also use the side for gradations.

RELATED LINKS:

Ultimate Guide to Sketchbooks and Paper
How to Hold and Control Your Pencil
Intro to Drawing Basics