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LESSON NOTES
Using an abstract piece of "anatomy", we see how to apply all these principles to complex organic forms.
DOWNLOADS
Secrets of Shading - Part 5 - Tentacle Demo.mp4
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ASSIGNMENTS
Thank you for the preview lesson. I gave it a shot. Your video was really good. I will definitely strongly consider the reasonably priced full course.
(I did go slightly on auto pilot with the shading stick even after the grave warning that that never works well, and i do regret it.)
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1mo
These look good! And yeah gotta watch out for autopilot. You could be a little more definite about the transition to light and shadow. This might be because it feels natural to keep rounding the form, but by cutting those harder core shadows, you will add to the illusion of three dimensionality. Nice work!
I put all practice exercise in 1 page. not bad for a first try. The shading from imagination ran away with me :)
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A fleshspear and a textures sketch based on the lesson. Criticism/feedback would be appreciated :)
my guess is he would say you could render some in the light, with some mid tones there that will define the shape better.
Hi, I tried to keep the shades simple (just the core shadow, shadow and some reflected light) and experiment with shapes.
The problems I have are:
1. Even though I know how the core shadow should work I don't know how to make it dark and soft at the same time. I mostly end up with the very sharp edges and those don't look good.
2. I can't spot the problem with vertical forms with the light from above. It looks like I don't understand how the light can work on the blop in this position.
I'd be grateful for any advise on the above and more if you see something else.
Thanks.
These spears look very nice! I like how this works even though the light seems to come from multiple directions. I wll defintely try this myself.
Got a Proko gift certificate for Christmas and I couldn't have spent it any better. Great content as always!!
Here's my first attempt at a fleshspear, crits and feedback are appreciated!
Went back to review earlier lessons and I think I caught one of my mistakes here:
Seems to me I went to dark in the shadows, which is confusing because it doesn't comply with the range of values I imagine being in a "fleshspear."
Like Steven said in lesson 4, "flesh has a particular contrast range" and things like sss wouldn't allow the shadows to get that dark. This is starting to look like one of Burne Hogarth's metal men.
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4yr
Love that you got creative with the second one- adding the geometric shapes to it is a great idea! I think with how nice and dark you have the shadows you can afford a little bit more rendering in the light. Yes, we must compress it, but having nothing there often gives a "bleached out" look that hurts the form.
I tried treating the top and bottom "meat spear" like they were in space, being lit from a point that acted like a spot light (lit from bottom for the top one, and vice versa for the bottom one). I did have some issues with the middle "meat spear" as I tried to have it lit "point-wise" or perpendicular to its length. Any advice for that would be most appreciated.
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4yr
That lighting set up is indeed tricky, though it's one commonly encountered in figure drawing- a common example being un-bent legs in a standing pose when the light is mostly from above. The pocket solution is to minimize the amount of "true" light shapes as the ones at the "front" of the spear will be blocking most of the light from the ones behind them, and to get a bit off fall off as you move away from the light. By fall off I mean make each light shape slightly darker overall than the ones that are closer to the light source than it. That falloff doesn't actually happen with the sun, whose illumination is generally even, but it does with most other light sources and explains things clearly to the viewer.
Steven, I have a professional question. I have ulnar nerve damage in my right arm, drawing hand and I noticed that I cannot do the overhand grip without intense pain in the nerve. As a hobbyist artist will this limit the drawings and shading that I could perform. I have found a way around some of the shading problems by using a mechanical pencil in which the lead rotates and keeps the shading pretty uniform.
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4yr
Hi Kyle, sorry to hear that. I would say you may have a tricker start, but it shouldn't limit you in the long run. All the kinds of shading I do with an overhand grip I could (and occasionally do) with a traditional writing grip, it's just a bit more uncomfortable. You rarely do anything in drawing or shading that requires more dexterity than executing your signature- it's the system of thought underneath that matters.
That's tough.
Allow me to give my 2 cents on the matter. I think you should consult an orthopedist. When talking about nerve damage you want know about your own limits and restrictions so you can devise solutions without worsen the problem. In this particular case you need help outside the art community from someone that is knowledgeable on the subject.
There are ways you can work around your problem, but you need to know the safest way to do it, for how much time you can do it, and overall best practices and cares.
Take care and Best regards
