How to Shade Drapery
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How to Shade Drapery
courseDrapery FundamentalsFull course (37 lessons)
$125
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Chazz President of Birds
This was great. Drawing along both pushed my shading up a not in readability but also highlighted this as one of my known fundamental weak areas (form and value). Something I've been trying to find for a while know is some quick exercises on shading and form to isolate those skills. Many days, I only have 20-30 minutes for art time. Does anyone have some pointers to share?
LESSON NOTES

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Build a Solid Foundation

Lighting drapery might feel like a lot of extra work with all those unique textures and folds. The secret is that you are just lighting basic shapes. If you go off on a tangent and only light the ruffle on a sleeve, your drawing will suffer. It feels disconnected. Always start with a solid mannequin or understructure. You can modify your mannequin to include the immediate push or bulge of a costume. This gives you a clear sense of direction before you worry about the details.

The Three Basic Forms

I do not light drapery any differently than I light a portrait. I mostly just think about lighting three basic geometries. If you lose contact with these three shapes, rendering becomes much harder.

  • Spheres show a gradual change in surface.
  • Cylinders are firm and sit somewhere in the middle.
  • Boxes have hard edge transitions.

Timing and Edges

Lighting is just an expression of timing. We are looking at the timing of a surface transition. If there is no plane change, there is no light and shadow. Every time a value changes, it expresses a transition. Is it slow, fast, or hard?

I rely on four main edge types to tell this story.

  • Soft edges move the eye slowly across a sphere.
  • Firm edges move you between the effects of light more quickly on a cylinder.
  • Hard edges are abrupt transitions found on boxes or cast shadows.
  • Lost edges blur into the background. These are compositional and help direct the viewer's eye.

Map the Big Shapes First

Always try to paint the biggest forms before you get lost in the frills. The first step is to get your large dark and light relationships mapped out. Find the core shadow, aim it across the form, and separate the light from the dark.

Do not just copy every value you see in a photograph. Choose to key your scale. I like to keep my main three values simple. The core shadow is a ten, the shadow fill is a five, and the page is a one. This gives you a strong graphic read. Once you have your big pass, decide where you want to spend your time. Develop the lights or follow through with the darks. Doing both equally splits the viewer's attention.

The Illusion of Texture

Texture is a very abstract language. Do not copy every little shape in a piece of lace or every strand of hair. Instead, identify the key shapes that give the essence of that material. Create a shorthand.

The best place to show off texture is in the halftone areas. Make your texture the most defined and darkest right at that halftone break. As you move away from the halftone, let those thematic shapes progressively get lighter and less prominent. From a distance, you get the perfect illusion of lace, metal, or denim without needing a magnifying glass.

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COMMENTS
Steven Michael Hampton
Lighting drapery is easier when you stop chasing every wrinkle. Treat the figure and fabric as basic geometric forms. Map your core shadows to these shapes to keep the underlying structure solid. You can imply texture later by drawing in the halftones.
Josh Fiddler
In taking my notes on this one, you mentioned the Peter Han texture map that I picked up from Draw a Box! If anyone is curious, Draw a Box is gruelling but worth it if you want to really solidify a ton of concepts and improve your drawing. Here are some of my texture exercises from it so people can get a better idea of what Steven means. They aren't the only ones I've done but they are the ones to hand.
CharmLotta
Oh, yes, Drawabox is awesome! My first drawing attempts were random objects with incorrect proportions and perspective - and, of course, I added shading, which didn’t improve them at all... A typical beginner’s mistake. Drawabox was a game changer.
Lyla
•
8d
Amazing lesson! Shading is something I really struggle with, I always get overwhelmed by the half tones and have a hard time keeping to simple readable shapes so this simply yet thorough explanation helped helped make the whole concept of shading less intimidating to me. Awesome teaching as always, I loved following along.
Steven Michael Hampton
So happy to hear it! Great study!
@purpleart
•
12d
Took the first drawing from a previous assignment and shaded it. The suggestion of adding texture only to the halftones is genius! I think it worked really well on her paisley patterned dress.
Steven Michael Hampton
Excellent work
Stefy Art
•
13d
This lesson was illuminating! I finally understand my mistakes: I always start with the darkest areas and then I lose myself in mid tones, while using the core shadow as a guide the result is much much better! Thanks.
Steven Michael Hampton
Glad to hear it made sense!
Kathleen McGuinness
I like designing light with the core shadow at first
Chazz President of Birds
This was great. Drawing along both pushed my shading up a not in readability but also highlighted this as one of my known fundamental weak areas (form and value). Something I've been trying to find for a while know is some quick exercises on shading and form to isolate those skills. Many days, I only have 20-30 minutes for art time. Does anyone have some pointers to share?
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