The best thing you can do is to get your devices, and especially the main device you use for work calibrated. For that, you need to buy (or borrow) a hardware tool called a colorimeter, which then works together with calibration software (they always come with one bundled, or you can use the very powerful but slightly complicated Open Source program called DisplayCAL). By doing this you adjust your screen to a standard, so any other screen that is calibrated will show colors very similarly, or even near identically. It also ensures that if you print them on a calibrated printer (which is what professional print shops will have) it will look pretty close to how it did on the screen. Of course, un-calibrated screens (which is what the majority of ordinary people have, especially phones, and especially cheap phones) will never be accurate, no matter what you do it will look wrong on some screens, but calibrating your main screen still gives the overall best result of it appearing acceptable on as many devices as possible. Also, any sort of color presets, like eg. the various modes on your TV or phone (usually called things like warm, cool, movie, game, night, etc.) will completely throw off colors when used, so keep that in mind. You must disable any such features on your device. Also, general good practices to ensure it will look acceptable on screens that are crappy or very off: - Never go all the way to 100% white or black if you can help it - Avoid very dark, low contrast images. These may end up merging into a black blob on crappy screens. Generally, any detail that is in the very darks and is not well visible will likely get completely lost on many phones. - Apply some sort of noise or texture faintly over the finished image. This will help to avoid color banding on crap screens (banding is when colors that are supposed to look like a gradient will instead look like areas or bands of distinctly different colors). One simple way is to have a layer filled with just noise, set that to Overlay or Soft Light mode, and the opacity to something very low, somewhere between 3% and 15%. This is what I do, except recently I started applying a Gaussian Blur filter to the noise first, this makes it look a lot like film grain, which is a popular aesthetic.

Just find your source of truth (aka calibrated screen) and make it work there. I think iPads and iPhones have pretty good colour calibration. I use a calibrated monitor. To be honest most people won't even notice unless it's WAY off. You can probably see a million more colours than the average instragramer :D

Personally I apply the same "tips" that we learned when I was in 3D : you work on one calibrated screen to get your tone, value, contrasts and color range as you envision it. So at least the base is correct and can also be printed without corrections. And then you accept it will be seen very differently all over internet. Many brand, many preset that are badly setup (we all know screens tend to be too bright, too contrasted and too blue because it is "shiny" in display at vendor) plus people that may have added "filters" to dim the light or the blue levels... It's too much an headache to sort. I would say : use one calibrated screen (you can often download color profile for many screens from vendor that correct a little the basic balance, or if you want to go serious buy a tool that create the profile itself, like ColorMunky tools), and eventually check how the colors render on paper. For all the rest it's "alea jacta est" :p Also has we are seeing a rise in e-ink reader using colors, I think in the future we will more have to care about "paper-like" color accuracy but it's not for today.

To answer your question, I think you absolutely don't need to do anything about it. The reason being the monitors are all different, even with same make and model, the age difference is gonna show much different images. Even printed books are never gonna show the colour you are trying to see with the original, not to mention screens. That's why you need to note some stuff when painting in the first place: I think the reason why you find that to be a concern is that you are used to the fidelity on your wacom or pc monitor and somehow relied on a small range of value/colours because "you can see that clearly on the screen you are drawing". That's not good enough, because human eyes are so sensitive to luminance, so you might be drawing a picture with only 10% difference in luminance/value and it still look okay if you don't actively check the range or histogram. That way if you move it to literally any other screen, it will look pale/too dark/too bright. I was having this problem at the beginning, when I look at my colouring I think oh it looks nice, but immediately I look at other artwork on the same screen, I found theirs more vibrant and diverse and mine looks flat, that's because only using the limited colour/luminance range when drawing. And about saturation, bad screens tend to have limited saturation. But remember Hue/Saturation/Value are _all relative_. Human eye doesn't see "Absolute" HSVs. There are two kinds of situation associated with this: 1. Your colour looks "shifted" on other displays: This is a common problem, different displays have different white point. I have a light hazy yellow-ish painting that appears almost green on my other display. No problem at all! Typically if you look at it for a while, you get used to "the context", and there's nothing abnormal except to you who just saw that on your other monitor. 2. Or your colour looks "washed out" on other displays: That means you probably are drawing on a wide colour range display and not using colour as saturated because you feel that's good enough at the moment. And vise-versa. To make myself realize the relative range of your display while painting, I typically paint a near pure black and pure white box in adjacent with a mid-tone gray thing on the four corners of my painting (I happened to have one here in the attached image), so I can constantly see how bright or dark I may be able to go, not relative to the local area you are currently brushing. This also applies to saturation. You can set up the max saturation you wanna go and paint a reference block somewhere.

Hi Sonja! Matching colors with different devices is a real pain in the ass. If you mainly want to get your colors right for instagram, I'd say you trust your phone screen. I don't know what brand or model your phone is, but I can tell you that I have an iPhone 11 and I think it shows colors pretty well. If you don't trust your phone for whatever reason, you can always ask your friends or family to let you check it out on their phones. I hope this was helpful.

Well that surely is one nasty problem. I usually try not to get too focused on the colour and rather keep track of my lights and darks. The contrast and gesture makes a painting much more interesting than the actual colour choice in my opinion. Therefore I try not to stress too much over the colour. Btw: jour paintings on your profile are beautiful! :)