figure drawing base values
3yr
Richard Barkman
After lay-in, I usually start shading by filling in a value of 5 in the shadows, and 3 in the light. But often I find that that I didn't actually achieve those values, I may unconsciously stay on the light side. Hence when I erase in a highlight, it can be hard to tell. Should I go darker across the spectrum?
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Matthias Becker
Hi Richard, Really nice shading. I like the way you defined the form and anatomy. Great pose, captured really well. On your question. It kind of depends on what you want or how the drawing should look like. When I cover up the head and arms of your drawing I don't see anything amiss. (besides the slightly too harsh center highlight on the torso...:) It looks like a very balanced, well defined drawing. It might be low contrast, but beautiful done so. I don't miss any highlights. (I'm ignoring the arms and head, since there are some contrast imbalances with the other parts - I want to stick with your actual question) If you want very distinct highlights you might need to go a little bit darker overall. I would suggest you simple try it by developing the values step by step and keep the steps in balance over the whole drawing. This way you can stop when you reached a point where you are satisfied. A fun practice is to use toned paper and white crayon. There you can draw explicit highlights as you like...:)
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Richard Barkman
Thanks for the help, I’ll try the step by step value development.
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Alec Brubaker
When portraying something that is lit by direct light, I like leaving the lights one flat value until I've established first my shadow shapes, and then my full value range in the shadows. You probably dont want your shadow values ending up too close to your light values and vice versa, and this process will give you a better idea of when to bring in your midtones where appropriate. Looking at shots from old black and white movies is a great lesson on the power of properly bracketed value structures. For example, in this image the values are very flat, there is no confusion between light and dark. And it reads extremely well. Posterized values are powerful.
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Richard Barkman
Great example, thanks!
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Gabriel Kahn
Great job mate! I recommend going for darker core shadows and ambient occlusion. I believe thats your only problem here :)
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Richard Barkman
Yeah, a darker core would have amped it up....thanks!
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Kristian Nee
Hey Richard! Nice drawing! While I was at the Watts Atelier, sometimes you'd see Ben, Erik or Jeff put in the background before anything else. They told me that sometimes it's necessary to do so you have an idea on what your value range should be. To me, it seems like you're not giving yourself much more room for values if you're going that light. Going darker could solve that
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Richard Barkman
@Kristian Nee That’s an interesting idea, I’ll have to try that. Where’s that van parked today?
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@pollypopcorn
One thing it says in some videos on Proko is after you do the lay in and start the shading, the first thing you can do is divide your drawing in just the lights and shadows and then get shadows shaded one ever tone. Then you add the rest of the shading and you create the reflected lights by darkening the other area of the shadows and let your original two-toned shade be your reflected light's value. Then you can try to be careful to not let any of your lights get darker than any of the darks. Also, with the woman's bra the cloth would be stretched over the breasts rather than clinging to them, so the center of bra would be more flat or slightly curved rather than there being forms ending definitively at the middle. And the body is fairly flat underneath right there as well.
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Richard Barkman
The approach you outlined is what I use; I need to experiment more with the light values. Thanks!
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Juan Gagliardo
Totally agree. This would also give the image a broader dynamic range
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Richard Barkman
Also, has anyone mastered the art of photographing drawings? I really struggle with it.
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